Tuesday, August 12, 2014

Airport

It's at least 3 hours past my bedtime and another hour until the plane takes off, and after all the heat in Darwin, my brain is pretty fried. The thermostats swore it was barely 80 F and only 50% humidity, but the intensity of the sun added at least 10 degrees and 20 percent. 

Some things I think I learned: 

-Before embarking on a trip, accept that you will probably not have any coffee or alcohol quite the way you like it until you're back home and don't waste any more energy worrying about it once your plane/boat/train gets going 
-If you want to meet people you like, just start doing the things you like and don't worry about anything else 
-I am a completely different person now than I was two and a half years ago when I went to Asia, which is great because I wanted to change, but now I have to find a happy medium.
-In addition, I've accumulated a plethora of not-quite-PC conclusions on being a solo female traveler. Buy me a (dark, coffee-flavored, Oregon-brewed, >8% ABV) beer and I'll tell you all about it! 

Tuesday, August 5, 2014

Leaving Cairns

It's 5:36 in the morning as I wait for the airport shuttle, safe from the rain under a wooden gazebo roof and safe from the noises of the jungle in the comforts of civilization. Sitting here in silence, watching the ghastly color of the pre-dusk sky peek through the palm trees, this is the first time my experience has felt remotely exotic and out of the ordinary. Sure, it has been beautiful, peaceful, exciting, breathtaking, what have you - but nothing has felt wild, unknown, unchartered, or even uncomfortably different or unusual.

These sensations of wildness, the sounds of rain against the roof and the knot in the pit of my stomach at the thought of renting a left-driving car in a mere few hours make my departure from Cairns bittersweet. It is another milestone that marks the bearing end of my trip, and this milestone is more significant than Greyhounding it up the east coast and knowing I will see familiar faces along the way. This is another plunge into the unknown for my final week, something I have yet to learn to embrace. But because it is scary, I know that it is something I must do - and the hope of better weather is not such a bad incentive! 

[backlog] Labels and Elements

I wrote this in Brisbane, while sunning, sneakily enjoying a hard cider, and openly enjoying a cheese sandwich on the riverbank.

July 18.  There are a few things that I miss about home and can't have right now, and that's not necessarily a bad thing.  I mean, I could very easily make it a bad thing, but instead I'm going to step back and observe what these feelings of longing say about me.

I miss my labels.  Surprised? I should expect so.  We work so hard to break free of the boxes that others put us into - in fact, I think one of the main reasons we travel is to get out of our everyday  context and allow people to just perceive us as we are.

But I miss having the culture that comes with my labels! I chose them carefully, and by doing this, I also chose the groups of people that I interact with.  It is especially strange to be in a big city that is well suited for young people and be on the outside of the groups where I usually belong.  Here, I am not a climber.  I am not a city biker.  Nor am I an engineer, a Stanford grad, or a consultant.

Instead, I am first of all a woman, then a tourist, and then an American - all of these come with their own stigmas.  If you spend a few minutes talking to me, you will realize that I am slightly older than all of the 18 years I look and also a bit of a treehugger, considering that I didn't bring any jeans (or stilettos or make-up) with me and considering that I got extremely claustrophobic in Sydney.  

Even though these labels are slightly nicer than just being perceived as a Yankee teenager, when becoming travelers, we also become sort of faceless.  By being good travelers, we can improve the tourist image abroad, but we lose our cultural niches because we are never in one place long enough to find and re-establish it.  This is an important experience! It is liberating to be faceless.  It is educational to see the differences between who we are at home and abroad, and we can better remember our culture by living through the absence of it.

 The experience is even stranger in a place like Brisbane than in a place like Nepal - my favorite example.  In Nepal, people are more different from me, so I try to learn how they are and perhaps try to be like them so that I can better understand these differences.  Here in Brisbane, the locals are quite like me, but I am not like them because I am just passing through, temporarily stripped of the items and activities that I would have in common with them if I was in my own context. But being outside of that context forces you to get creative and think outside of your typical habits.  Having a poor wifi connection in your hostel and a much smaller bank of friendly acquaintances to draw on forces you to get the hell off your phone and go do things.  New things, in a new place, alone.

For example, right now I am picnicking on the bank of the Brisbane river, illegally drinking a hard cider that is also slightly out of its element, disguised in can instead of bottle form.  It's hard to know if I would go on an outing like this at home on a random Saturday afternoon because when I didn't have homework, I was usually off on a backpacking trip.  I think it's easy to get caught up in the briefness of the weekend and feel like you always have to be doing something - be it an errand or something fun. That's the problem with travel agencies as well - they try to make you feel like you have to see everything, do everything, and ideally have a paid expert on hand to plan and orchestrate the whole thing.  I have been so guilty of overplanning for the entire past year that I've been missing out on the simple pleasures of enjoying a lazy Saturday afternoon with all the space I need to think, to create, and not have a care in the world.  Hopefully I can capture some of this Aussie laid-backness and take it back to my real life!

Thursday, July 31, 2014

Cairns

Watching Cairns wake up at the lovely time of 6:30 AM after taking my last overnight bus while sipping a delicious cappuccino in the one of the only open joints at this hour and relishing my first work email of the month. Not bad at all! 

Jumping into the unknown for six weeks along a straight, settled, San Francisco line was displacing and I felt terribly far and enjoying the unfamiliar territory, which made me be extremely present in my surroundings. Now with less than two weeks left before heading back to the states and more consistent contact from home, I seem to have put all the pieces of the world back into their places, which is equally weird and unusual. I can't say that being fully nomadic hasn't been exhausting, but traveling is basically the best thing you can do with your time in money, so the return home will definitely be bittersweet. 

Well, as I used to console myself in India, I'm leaving tomorrow and I'm not leaving the day after, so as far as I'm concerned, it's irrelevant! 

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

[backlog] Sydney, Third Impression

I wrote this while shivering in line for a horribly nauseating, yet nonetheless extremely satisfying, whale watching tour.

July 7.  Any place can be small and personal once you let it.  The independent places that have all their shit together seem intimidating because they've got no missing puzzle piece whose role you can assume.  But once you've walked the same block a few times and learned the places and faces you'll see around the corner, a place begins to shrink down to its most endearing traits. 

The process of personalization with the transient elements of my experience - namely, the other backpackers, is also interesting.  Knowing me, it's not too surprising that in a short span of time I've found so many people who it's really hard to say goodbye to.  I am surprised, though, how quick people can be to share personal details of their background.  So the question is - do we share our personal details because we feel anonymous or because we need to feel less anonymous?  Do we freely disclose information because it doesn't really matter, or because we need to feel more connected when we are taken out of context a gazillion miles from home? 

I did a lot of thinking on this topic and now I'm going to leave it to you to figure out your personal conclusion. How long do you think you could travel alone while remaining anonymous and only playing very brief roles in other travelers' stories? What information and personal anecdotes would you feel comfortable sharing with people and what would your purpose be in doing so?
 

Thursday, July 24, 2014

Love Letter to the Ocean

The mountains are my home, but the ocean is my Mecca.  It is my spiritual home.  Going into the water is a pilgrimage for me. Ever since I got old enough that my parents stopped trying to talk me out of risking hypothermia by diving into glacial waters in subzero temperatures, I can count on one hand the number of times that I did not go into the water when I had the opportunity.  The ocean has more power and greatness than I could ever achieve.  Swimming in its waves is a love affair.  It is different every time.  Sometimes it is calm like a lake, and I can stand still and stare clear to infinity over the surface of the water.  Other times, the wind and waves conspire to create a turbulent obstacle course; white crests boiling over the water's edge and playing dodgeball with me. 

In either case, swimming out from shore is a dangerous game of vertigo.  Vertigo is not our fear of falling, but our fear of our desire to fall (I'm sure this is not the first time that I'm quoting Tomas from Unbearable Lightness of Being on this blog).  And I'm sure this is not the first time that I'm bringing up what Tim, one of our Alaska instructors, told us:  when he was in Antarctica, he was overcome with the urge to go out onto the ice away from McMurdo and walk forever, even though he would likely never find the base again once he got far enough.  Horizontal vertigo, he called it.  It's no different in the water - you start swimming out towards the tops of the waves and want to keep going until you hit the horizon, yet that's a goal you can never achieve. 

So every time I walk away from the ocean at the end of a long, brisk day, I leave a tremendous amount of unfinished business behind - swim to the horizon.  And every time I come back, I must get in again to try and get closer to that goal.  Even though I know that I can never get there, it keeps me getting into the water every time I come back.  Namaste, ocean.  Until next time.

Thursday, July 17, 2014

Brisbane

Brisbane is even better than Sydney AND Byron! I can't handle it!

Last night I met up with Robyn and Tom, my friends from Sydney by way of Malaysia and Hong Kong. We got Malaysian food and walked around and giggled and I got lots of inside tips to the city. It's the friends and trees and river that make it feel smaller and more manageable :)

Then today I had the most wonderful and completely unplanned day. Had my first couch surfer meeting with Nikki and her friend Will. Nikki showed me her wonderful home and we basked in the sun and they cooked me lunch and we went for a drive to drop off Will at work. Then it turned out he works at Mount Coot-Tha, a beautiful getaway just outside the city. So after taking our photos at the top, Nikki dropped me off at the bottom and I stumbled through the forest to find my way back to the top again.

My walk involved a 1.5-km aboriginal art loop which included paintings on logs and rocks arranged in certain patterns. The section of the forest had a prehistoric air and an ancient feel to it. I felt lucky to walk through an area rich with so much history but it was also a little Blair Witch, so I was happy when I re-emerged at the top of the mountain and headed for the cafe. 

After a splendid chocolate caramel tart and some unsuccessful haggling for a faded beach towel, I jumped onto the last bus headed back into town (purely because I saw a city bus pull up in front of me) and soon found myself in the hustle and bustle of Queen Mall. The Aussie Target experience was quite disappointing and after some price tag browsing in higher quality shops I determined that I am not, in fact, buying a going out outfit, especially when I can eat sushi to my heart's delight at a fraction of a price. So I have been taking a well deserved break from pasta and peanut butter sandwiches! 

I had spotted the Ferris wheel before dinner and decided to try and walk there afterwards. I realized that I should have saved my appetite for the night noodle house that takes place near the Ferris wheel, but there is always tomorrow night! While enjoying my aerial view, I saw several boats dissecting the river and decided to go there next! When I got to the ferry stop, I had a nice chat with two women from Calcutta and the Philippines who helped me find the free boat that does a round trip in the river. After enjoying a 30-minute peaceful night ride, I got off at a new stop and walked back home (past a bottleshop with imported beer, obviously). Great success! 

Not planning the shit out of this trip has definitely been a personality challenge for me, but it's paying off because I couldn't have planned a day like today if I tried!